Climber Potter, Patagonia agree to split the synchilla
Climbing ambassador is out of sponsorship job
following climb of Delicate Arch.
Dean Potter's relationship with his sponsor,
Patagonia, hit a snag with his free-solo ascent of
Delicate Arch in Utah last year, which also brought
criticism from the climbing community. While he said
he learned a lesson, Potter wonders whether too many
regulations prevent people from experiencing wild
places on their own terms. NEWS&GUIDE PHOTO / ANGUS
M. THUERMER JR.
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By Angus M. Thuermer Jr.
March 21, 2007
Dean Potter and his wife, Steph Davis, two of the most
accomplished mountaineers in the world, will no longer be
rock climbing ambassadors for the Patagonia outdoors
clothing company, Potter said this week in Jackson.
The split between the famous couple and the well-known
company comes almost a year after Potter made a
controversial ascent of Delicate Arch in Arches National
Park, Utah, last spring. The latest development in Potter’s
high-profile career, which moved into dicey terrain
following the arch ascent, will put him at arm’s length from
a company that has pioneered environmentalism around the
globe in a fashion never before seen.
Potter, a superb alpinist, rock climber, slackline walker,
BASE jumper and aerialist, is breaking such new ground in
the mountain scene that Alpinist Film Festival organizer
Christian Beckwith labeled him a “climbing provocateur.” In
Jackson to attend that gathering last weekend, Potter said
in an interview that he and Davis would end their
relationship with the Ventura, Calif., firm, owned by
Jackson Hole homeowners Yvon and Malinda Chouinard.
“Patagonia does some really amazing things for the
environment that are much more important than my climbing,”
Potter said. “Their mission is a really important one and I
wouldn’t want to affect that in a negative way.
“My thoughts about being free were too risky for them to
back,” Potter said. “The negative effects are too big for
them. ... So we went our separate ways.”
Potter’s lanky build, shaggy mane and bold tactics have made
him a name as he has racked up speed alpine ascents and solo
climbs that astonish. He became the first person to solo
both Fitzroy and Cerro Torre in Patagonia, Argentina, and
turned heads by walking a rope over dizzying and deadly
drops.
Today he is pushing the limits of climbing as he seeks to
ascend mountains, jump off them and glide in a suit fitted
with fabric “wings” to land with a parachute at the base of
his next objective. Yet as he sought the freedom of the
hills with his envelope-pushing feats, Potter ran into
conflict with conservationists, and a large part of his
climbing community, with his ascent of Delicate Arch.
Park officials, who thought climbing on arches already was
prohibited, imposed new restrictions on climbing, while
climbers attacked Potter in Internet forums. They and
conservationists even accused him of damaging the fragile
feature after a photographer shot pictures of grooves
thought to have been caused by the dragging of a rope across
Delicate’s sandstone face.
And while he has apologized for his ascent, Potter wonders
whether there still is freedom in the hills, or whether our
remote places are so regulated one can no longer go there,
as John Muir once did, to find one’s soul.
Raised in New Hampshire as the son of an Army soldier and
U.N. liaison, Potter, 34, told a film festival audience he
grew up as a “misfit kid.” He played in the woods, a rebel
hunting and fishing. His first climbing was on Joe English
cliff.
“My parents forbid me to go there,” he said. “You had to
break in.”
Climbing without ropes on routes that are traditionally
safeguarded with mountaineering hardware, he and his buddies
had their first brush with death. “No one taught us rules,”
Potter said.
Childhood dreams of flying may have played a role in his
quests, Potter said. Ultimately, it was in nature and on the
cliffs that he found solace.
“I had my problems with attention in school,” Potter said.
“It didn’t happen with climbing.
“The main thing that’s drawn me in is the heightened
awareness that danger brings, that beauty brings,” he said.
“That seems to bring out the extra power in me – when I’m
really alert.”
“The mountains for me are about chasing after freedom and
following impulses,” he said. “I’m not for rules, taking
away freedom.”
Part of his relationship with the mountains are efforts to
walk ropes, known among climbers as slacklines, strung
between rock towers and walls. He also is a BASE jumper –
one who leaps off buildings, antennae, spans and earth
features – with a parachute. But BASE jumping is illegal in
national parks, and slacklining is under fire after his walk
between The Gossips, sandstone towers in Arches.
Potter argues that his BASE jumping and slackline walking do
not harm the environment. Prohibitions against them “are
bringing us farther away from our spirit,” he said.
Such thinking led him to the ascent of Delicate Arch, the
landmark on Utah license plates and an image engraved on the
back of medals awarded at the Winter Olympic Games in Salt
Lake City. Potter climbed the roughly 60-foot-tall formation
of Entrada sandstone last spring without a belay rope, a
feat publicized with photographs and a video.
The climb won him more attention than he bargained for, and
almost all of it negative. While he appears to have slipped
through a loophole in national park regulations, critics
were eager to point to grooves worn in the sensitive feature
and blame them on Potter’s practice rope, or one employed by
a cameraman. Moreover, the unwritten rule among climbers in
Moab, Utah, Potter’s home along with Yosemite Valley,
Calif., was to avoid confrontation with officialdom.
Accusation of egotism
“There are rules you know you’re not supposed to break –
they’re not necessarily written,” said Sam Lightner, a
Jackson Hole and Moab resident, climber and a board member
of the national climbing advocacy group the Access Fund.
“All climbers know we got the towers, everybody else got the
arches.”
Wilson resident and Access Fund founder Armando Menocal said
Potter was thoughtless.
“He let his ego get ahead of the overall interest of the
climbing community,” Menocal said.
Reaction from the public and the Park Service to Potter’s
climb was intense and immediate. Among the letters that
flooded acting chief ranger Paul Cowan’s desk was one from
U.S. Sen. Orrin Hatch of Utah calling for action, Lightner
said.
“We realized our climbing guidelines needed to be clarified
last year,” park Superintendent Laura Joss said in a
telephone interview from Arches on Monday. The result was a
restating of what the park thought had been a ban on
climbing named arches, plus a prohibition against the
placing of new fixed climbing anchors. And by the way, no
more slacklining either, the park said.
Joss would not elaborate on Potter’s climb.
“The incident is still under investigation,” she said.
Arches is now soliciting public comments on how to address
climbing and what regulations to adopt permanently. Interim
prohibitions have Lightner, Menocal and their ilk perturbed,
and they blame Potter.
“He denied all other climbers the opportunity to put up
routes on towers in what is probably the largest, last
undeveloped area,” Menocal said. If Potter had done his
climb without fanfare, “I believe it probably would have
made a difference with the Park Service,” he said.
Lightner agreed. “Everybody understood you don’t rub the
public’s face in climbing,” he said.
Potter took too long to apologize, Lightner said.
“He didn’t seem to care. If Dean had come out and said, ‘I
screwed up,’ I think this would not have been as bad for
us.”
Potter said he didn’t hurt anything, never broke a law. His
cameraman used a rope to reach the summit, and Potter
admitted to using a monkey fist knot to get a line over the
arch. To practice for his unroped ascent, he employed a
traction device on the rope. He said he never dragged the
line over a part of the arch that would cause wear.
No top-rope involved
“The rock scars are actually from a top-rope, and I never
used a top-rope,” Potter said. A recent e-mail from a
climbing friend named a now-dead climber, one who once lived
in Jackson Hole, as a previous ascensionist of Delicate
Arch, Potter said. Perhaps he created the climbing-rope
grooves.
“I’ve always respected nature,” Potter said. “People who
know me know I would never hurt the rock. If I pounded the
rock with a hammer or destroyed a tree ... that would be a
mistake.”
“There wasn’t any legal reason for me not to climb it,”
Potter said of Delicate Arch. “I didn’t see any moral reason
not to climb it. I didn’t hurt it.”
Potter said he would not climb Totem Pole, the spire in
Monument Valley that Navajo imbue with religious
significance. Delicate Arch, despite its prominence on Utah
license plates, doesn’t have the stature of that sacred
Arizona tower, he said.
“I didn’t see a reason why it’s wrong, why we shouldn’t mesh
with nature,” Potter said.
He didn’t expect the reaction he got, either.
“I thought values like freedom and being one with nature
were such a common thread, it blew me away that other people
found higher importance elsewhere,” he said. “It was sort
of an embarrassing surprise. I think of myself as tuned in.
It does make me think twice and try to be open to things out
there.”
Potter said that today he is a wiser man: “I have hurt
people’s feelings – especially with Delicate Arch. That’s
something I didn’t intend.”
The feelings of his partners and climbers are most
important, he said, calling the episode “a super learning
mistake.”
The outlawing of slacklining, Potter said, he doesn’t
comprehend.
“The Park Service never talked to me,” he said. “I really
don’t understand that one.”
“I didn’t break any law, didn’t hurt the rock,” Potter said.
“Something must have bothered them about filling this
unowned space. I’m still baffled. What was wrong there?”
Instead of being able to commune with nature in his own way
and pursue his sport to his limits, Potter said, he must
travel instead to foreign countries. “The most wild places
in our country are becoming the most confined places in
terms of freedom,” he said.
In Ventura, Rob Bon Durant, vice president of marketing and
communications for Patagonia, said Potter and Davis will
cease their association with the company at the end of the
fiscal year, May 1.
“Dean and Steph will not remain ambassadors,” he said,
calling their departure part of a “natural cycle.”
There are no hard feelings, Bon Durant added. “Everybody’s
on great terms,” he said.
Potter said that Davis also losing her position with
Patagonia was the biggest blow. “She got dragged in and
somehow exiled with me,” he said.
“Yvon and Malinda are really like family to us,” Potter said
of the Chouinards. “We really respect them. We hoped to be
with Patagonia the rest of our lives.”